If you've got a scribe pushed in there tightly you can actually facilitate matters by tapping the safety wing toward the rear with a little non-marring hammer. Now the surprise, the safety will come off to the rear over the back ridge of the groove. Work the sharp point in between the plunger and the bottom of the groove, wiggle and push until the plunger is depressed into it's hole.
Position the safety wing in the vertical position between the two dimples that receive the plunger when it is completely on or off safe. When you do that, take the bolt apart and take the safety out of the sleeve it is best done much like Ed described it. PB- sorry about being slow to get back to you, but today was dentist visit day. In your work with these guns, have you ever removed the safety lever from the bolt sleeve? If so, would you care to post instructions for doing so? I believe I can clear up the problem if I can get at the ball and what I believe must be a spring behind it. After trying to work various solvents and lubricants in behind the ball, the lever has started to become somewhat easier to turn, but is still hard to move and much stiffer than on my other Krag.ĭG, I have noticed on this forum you are quite the Krag aficionado. Possibly that spring is either broken, corroded or clogged with dirt, gunk, etc. My best guess is the ball is pushed into the groove by a spring behind it, housed in a tiny hole in the safety lever. The safety lever appears to be held into the rear of what Numerich calls the "bolt sleeve" by a ball that rides in a circular groove in the sleeve. Even when separated from the other bolt components, the safety lever is still difficult to turn. Therein did I discover what I believe is the problem. Mk42, I disassembled the bolt into its basic components and cleaned per your suggestion. “Legal Requirements” means all applicable legal requirements for the sale, transfer and transport of the item, including but not limited to statutes, regulations and/or requirements of any country, state locality, province, municipality or other government authority or regulatory entity regarding sales or auctions, the sale and/or transfer of the item, export or import control, taxation, duties or tariffs, and licensing of brokers and dealers.Relics, I tried your suggestion of pulling back on the cocking piece and turning the safety lever - no go.ĭG, I don't believe this is a "parts baby," and it does not appear that anyone filed, honed or otherwise altered the parts you describe. “Firearms” shall have the meaning provided under the Gun Control Act of 1968, 18 U.S.C. It is very important that you contact an FFL Holder before placing a bid in order to verify the complete cost of the transfer, the legality of the item in your area, and to make sure you qualify to pass any required background checks. You must make arrangements with an FFL Holder before placing a bid.
You must transmit a copy of your (or your FFL Holder’s) license to the seller before the Firearms can be shipped. The Firearms must be shipped only to a Federal Firearms License holder (“FFL Holder”).
By purchasing this lot you agree that you will be solely responsible for compliance with all applicable Legal Requirements governing the purchase, sale, transfer and shipping of Firearms.
His fees are $100 per gun plus any applicable shipping charges. Dimensions: 41.5 inches long overall, with a 22 inch barrel. We do not sell post 1898 firearms to California residents unless they have a valid FFL or Relic and Curio license. Ben Pate at American Arms in Woodland, CA will handle all in state and out of state transfers. This version does not have a saddle ring mount, but does have sling swivels. A very fine and original Krag 1898 Carbine in.